I'm not about to give you a chemistry lesson. Instead, I want to help you know which developer you should use. I'll give you my thoughts on each and how I choose. It's easy, promise.
Most people think it's the toner or hair colour that makes all the difference, but developer plays such a big role. Choosing the wrong developer for your can give you wildly different results, often not always in a good way. It's a giant part of hair colouring.
The Short Answer (a quick overview)
When I'm choosing a developer I'm asking myself three things:
- Am I wanting to lighten slightly, cover greys or just deposit colour?
- How light (or dark) is my hair right now? Both on the lengths and the roots
- What am I trying to fix
Answering these questions helps me to know which developer is right for me. Sometimes it's two! I will also take in to account what the brand suggests, but it's more important that I pick based on my hair right now and my hair goals.
Developer strengths at a glance
- Zero Lift/No Lift Developer
When you want to tone without altering the natural hair
Using for toning and demi-permanent colours - 10 Vol Developer
Lightens hair very slightly while depositing colour
Using for toning, demi-permanent colours and some permanent colours - 20 Vol Developer
Lightens hair as it deposits colour, creating a permanent change
Used for some toners, permanent colou and lighteners - 30 & 40 Vol Developer (not recommened)
Lightens hair more agressively and speeds up processing
Typically used for lightening and hi-lift colours
Developer strengths, one by one
Zero Lift / No Lift Developer
I choose Zero Lift / No Lift Developer when I want to deposit colour without altering my natural hair at all. This only works when the shade you're using is the same level or darker than your current hair.
It's my first choice when I'm growing out my natural colour but still want to tone away brassiness, or when my hair is feeling fragile and I want to colour it without risking further damage.
The trade-off with such a low-strength developer is that results can be less long-lasting, and in some cases colour can appear a little patchy (especially on porous or uneven hair).
If you're looking for a more worry-free option for at-home toning or colouring, this is usually where I start.
10 Vol Developer
10 Vol Developer hits the sweet spot for at-home toning, and it's the one I reach for most often. It works by lightening the hair very slightly while depositing colour, which means you get more even, longer-lasting results.
It's my go-to when I'm toning away brassiness, colouring my hair, or blending greys (not covering them, it stains them slightly, which gives a softer, more dimensional look). Stronger than Zero Lift Developer but still gentle, you generally don't need to worry about damage when using 10 Vol Developer.
The trade-off is that results are semi-permanent, typically lasting a few weeks.
If you're looking for a reliable, low-stress option for at-home toning that gives more even and longer-lasting results, this is usually my choice.
20 Vol Developer
I choose 20 Vol Developer when I'm looking to make a permanent change, as this strength gets right in to the structure of your hair.
I reach for it when I need something strong to help with brassiness, to cover greys, to create a more even result or to lighten my hair. It can be used with permanent toners, permanent colours and bleach.
The trade-off is that it can be damaging, and it can also lighten natural roots (which, if not intentional, can cause them to go brassy).
If you're looking for a developer that delivers permanent results and you're confident about why you're using it, this can be the right choice.
30 and 40 Vol Developer
I don't use or recommend 30 or 40 Vol Developer.
These higher strengths work in a similar way to 20 Vol Developer, just faster and more aggressively. In my experience, the results people are chasing with 30 or 40 Vol can almost always be achieved in a slower, more controlled way using 20 Vol instead.
You simply don't need this level of strength, and the risks outweigh the benefits.
The mistakes I see all the time
There a few mistakes people make with developers. I've done a few of these myself, so let me save you the trouble.
- Using a higher volume to "fix" brassiness
Stronger developer doesn't cancel warmth (it can sometimes make it worse) - Assuming stonger = better
Higher volume means more lift and impact to your hair, not better results - Matching your developer to what you've seen others use
What works for someone elses hair doesn't automatically mean it'll work for yours
Choosing the right developer means thinking about your hair, your starting point and what you're actually trying to achieve. Not what's most popular or most powerful.
One last thing
Choosing the right developer isn't about using the strongest option or copying what someone else did. Use what the colour or toner brand suggests, but think about what your hair needs right now and match your developer to that goal.
If you remember one thing, let it be this: gentler first, stronger only when there's a clear reason. Don't let the strongest be your default choice.
If you're in Australia, you can find the developers I personally trust here. If you're elsewhere, I hope this this has helped you to choose what's available to you locally. You can read more of my thoughts on at-home, brass-free hair in The Brass-Free Journal.
